From left to right:  Caran d'Ache Technograph, Grafik, Swiss Wood, and Black Wood pencils. 

The purpose of this review is to convince you to spend $30 on four pencils made from exotic wood. 

Just kidding (well, mostly), because I’m not quite at that point myself, but I’m beginning to get why Caran d’Ache seems to be so successful with their luxury line.  For the past couple of weeks I’ve had the pleasure of using a selection of Caran d’Ache pencils, each of which is relatively expensive as far as pencils go (in the $1.00-3.50 per pencil range), and I’ve enjoyed spending some time with them. 

Caran d’Ache is a Swiss company that manufactures fine writing and art supplies.  Founded in 1915, the company takes its name from the pen name of the 19th Century French satirist and cartoonist, Emmanuel Poiré, who it turn took his pseudonym from the Russian word for pencil, karandash.  In the U.S. (where I'm located), Caran d’Ache is best known for its drawing pencils (both graphite and color), and in fountain pen circles the company is highly regarded for its fountain pens and writing inks.

I have had very little experience with Caran d’Ache products until recently.  I’ve used fountain pens since I was in college, but I’ve never been tempted by the Caran d’Ache line of inks, finding them too pricey for what I’d consider the wrong reason.  They run $32 for a 50ml bottle of ink, with most of the premium price apparently going towards the design and construction of the bottle itself.  The prices of their pens also run high, with most exceeding the $220 market for a pen with a steel nib.  On the pencil side, Caran d’Ache has received a lot of attention for their special edition “Crayons de la Maison Caran d’Ache” series, which is a pack of four pencils made from exotic woods that retails for $30.     

Given my limited blog budget as of late, I decided to try some of their standard pencils instead.  I picked four:  (1) the Black Wood, which is a matte-black “mini-jumbo” sized pencil in which the wood itself is also dyed black with ink; (2) the Swiss Wood, which is made from Swiss beech taken from the Jura forest (per information released by the company); (3) the Grafik, a textured pencil which appears to be Caran d’Ache’s answer to the Faber Castell Grip 9000; and (4) the Technograph, best described as a high quality standard yellow pencil (with no eraser).

Here are my thoughts after spending a week or so with these pencils: 

Pros: 

• Caran d’Ache makes very high quality pencils.  The pencils all sharpen well to a good point.  The finish is also nice, and the end cap on the Swiss Wood pencil is dipped in red and marked with the white cross of the Swiss flag.  I would characterize the Black Wood, Swiss Wood, and Technograph as “luxury” pencils on par with the Mitsubishi Hi-Uni and Palomino lines, in terms of finish and smoothness of the graphite. 
• The Black Wood and the Swiss Wood pencils have excellent weight and balance.  I typically have an issue with using pencils that do not have erasers, since I find them too light and uncomfortable to write with.  The Black Wood and the Swiss Wood are so heavy that I don’t notice they are eraserless.  The Grafik and Technograph are both standard weight, and therefore a touch too light for me. 
•  Point retention on all of these pencils is excellent, and you can go a long time between sharpenings.  I’ve been journalling with a Black Wood in a Baron Fig Confidant (which has textured paper), and I can go a full 2-3 pages without having to sharpen that pencil.  Using the Swiss Wood at work, I’ve made it almost half a day on a single sharpening.  The other side of point retention, however, is lighter graphite, which many will find to be a drawback (see below).     

Cons: 

• Price.  These pencils aren’t cheap.  The Swiss Wood cost me $3.50 for a single pencil.  That’s not outrageous:  the pencil costs approximately the same as two Palomino Blackwings, and due to the relative hardness of the lead, it will probably take me twice as long to use up as a Blackwing. In the end, I think I’ll come out even.  The Black Wood also runs at $3.50; the Technograph at $3.00, and the Grafik at $1.40.  (All prices are taken from cwpencils.com, which has one of the largest selections of Caran d’Ache pencils on the internet.)   
• Darkness.  When evaluating a pencil, many people value darkness of the graphite above all else.  Caran D’Ache pencils contain a lighter grade of graphite than most Americans are probably used to.  The difference in graphite is particularly noticeable in the Swiss Wood pencil, which is marked HB, but I would peg at the equivalent of a No. 2.5 or No. 3 pencil.  I’m tempted to describe the grade as “German HB,” but I think it’s even lighter than a Staedtler Noris or Wopex.  Part of me wonders whether Caran d’Ache did this intentionally, knowing that purchasers of their “luxury wood” pencils would want them to last longer.     

A comparison of the Caran d'Ache pencils against some others in my collection.  I would compare the Swiss Wood to the classic Faber Castell American #2 pencil (a personal favorite), though perhaps a shade lighter and much smoother.  The others are probably most comparable to the Field Notes pencil, though again, the graphite on the CdA pencils is much smoother and less scratchy, as one would expect from a pencil in this price range. 

Takeaways. 

Of the four pencils I have reviewed, the Swiss Wood and the Black Wood pencils are my favorites, and I will probably add a few more of each to my stash.  Of the other two, the Technograph wins out over the Grafik, but I’m not sure either differentiates itself enough from the less expensive pencils I have in my collection to warrant stocking up.     

Disclosures. 

I purchased these pencils from Caroline Weaver Pencil Enterprise (cwpencils.com) at retail price, with my own funds.  The views expressed in this review are my own; and I am not affiliated with the retailer or manufacturer in any way.     

The Lamy Safari comes packaged in a simple, yet well designed, cardboard sleeve.  

Lamy's Safari line is a go-to recommendation for a "first fountain pen."  Many people, like me, come to Safaris later, after they have been using (much more expensive) fountain pens for a while, only to realize that the Safari is a flat-out good pen, irrespective of its price range.  If you don't have one in your rotation, you should reconsider, provided the design works for you.  

Design and Build

Like the Lamy 2000 (perhaps my favorite fountain pen of all time), the Safari sports an iconic design.  Also like the Lamy 2000, the Safari has remained largely unchanged since its debut in 1980.  The pen is relatively rugged, made of injection-molded plastic, and will hold up to pretty robust pocket carry and daily use.  It's earned a reputation as a good daily user; a "knockabout" fountain pen for those who are hesitant to tote their more expensive pens around town with them.  The Safari also comes in numerous colors, including matte charcoal (pictured), shiny black, red, blue, white, and yellow, along with various "limited edition" colors that change annually.  This year's L.E. Safari is neon coral; last year's was neon yellow.  

Profile shot of the Safari.  You can see how the sides of the triangular section are flat, forming a ridge along the top.  

The Safari sports a characteristic triangular grip section, which is either loved or hated by users. Frankly speaking, your opinion of the grip section will either make or break this pen for you.  I don't mind, because I apparently grip my pen in a manner that is "Lamy-compatible," but I know several people who simply can't use this pen because the section hurts their fingers.  At the $30 price point, the Safari is not going to break the bank if the purchase doesn't work out, but this may be a "try-before-you-buy" purchase if you have never held a Safari or an Al-Star (the slightly larger, more expensive aluminum version of the Safari).  Fortunately, Safaris are relatively easy to find.  For example, in my area, a local luggage store that carries a very limited pen selection stocks Safaris.   

How I hold the pen, which is fairly comfortable.  Yes, the nib on the Charcoal Safari is black! 

Finally, the Safari is a cartridge/converter pen.  The pen comes with a single cartridge of Lamy blue ink, but a converter must be purchased separately for a few dollars more. 

Nibs  

The Safari uses Lamy's interchangeable nibs that also fit other Lamy pens, including the Al-Star, the Vista (basically, a clear Safari demonstrator), and the Studio.  All Safaris come with stainless steel nibs, but if you're inspired to trick out this pen I imagine that the gold nibs featured on some of the more expensive Studio models would also fit the Safari. 

There's no need to spend that extra money, however, because for the most part, Lamy's Steel nibs are perfectly satisfactory.  I've had the best luck with the medium nibs, which write a traditional "western medium" line.  The fine and extra-fine nibs can be scratchy, and sometimes I can barely tell a difference between them.  If you are interested in trying italic nibs, Lamy offers 1.1 and 1.5 mm options, and they are very good for the price point.   

Takeaways

So is a Safari right for you?  If you are considering one, here are the main questions to ask yourself: 

• Is the triangular grip section going to bother you?  If you think that it might, and "grip guides" on pens and pencils haven't worked for you in the past, I would try to find a Safari to test out before you place an order. 
• Do you mind having a "funky looking" pen?  With it's grip section and oversized cap and clip, the Safari is "unique" looking, to say the least. You will get questions about this pen, and people will want to use it.  
• Are you worried you will be tempted to buy more than one?  Here's what I find to be the main issue--because Safaris (and AL-Stars as well) are not very expensive, the siren song of the "limited edition" becomes very hard to resist.  This year's limited edition AL-Star in Copper Orange is already on its way to me. 

But once these issue are resolved, get a Safari.  It's a great pen.  It's also one that I have owned once before, sold to finance another purchase, and immediately regretted letting go.  I'm glad this one's back in my pen case. 

Ink Used in this Review 

Lamy's iconic ink bottle with the blotter paper holder in the base. 

The ink that I used to review this pen was Lamy black.  Lamy black gets very little "press" on the pen blog circuit, probably because it's one of the most utilitarian inks out there.  It does, however, flow extremely well and shades to some degree.  While many people don't find shading desirable in a black ink, Lamy black has some additional character, meaning that it has some deeper green/purple undertones.  I've also enjoyed the bottle, which comes with a roll of blotter paper that you tear off and use to wipe the nib after you fill the pen.  The ink has worked well on most paper that I've used over the past week, and especially in my Baron Fig notebook that has become my daily companion.   

Lamy Ink Bottle, deconstructed. 

This pen and bottle of ink was provided to me for review purposes at no charge by Ron at PenChalet.  PenChalet carries a wide variety of Lamy prducts, including the 2000, the Safari, the AL Star, and others.  Their prices are always extremely competitive, and they stand behind the quality of what they sell. 

For those of you who, like me, live south of the Mason-Dixon and are concerned about the imminent shutdown of their city and overall collapse of civilization in advance of 4-5 inches of snow, here's some stuff to take your mind off things: 

1. The Pen Addict reviews an orange Iroshizuku ink (Fuyu-Gaki) that he thought he would really like but it just doesn't catch on.  I have a bottle of the Yu-Yake sitting in my bookcase that I purchased at a pen show last year but haven't gotten around to cracking open yet, and I think I'm subconsciously worried about just this issue.  I want to like this ink, but I suspect that I won't love it.  

2. The Clicky Post reviews the Pilot Kuru Toga.  I have yet to find a mechanical pencil that I like as much as this one, and I recommend it as the starting point for anyone interested in mechanical pencils.   

3. The Well-Appointed Desk reviews Kaweco Summer Purple.  

4. There has been a lot of necessary discussion about negativity in pendom, and on the internet in general.  Brad over at Super Fun Time has an excellent post on negativity in the pen forums (which has largely driven me away from them), and another on blog/twitter/youtube trolls.  I have my own thoughts on how best to deal with the latter. Last Week's episode of The Pen Addict also touched on this subject, and, as always, is worth a listen. 

5. Finally, there's a new podcast out there that's well worth an additional investment of your time:  Dot Grid, with Will Fanguy and Andy Welfle (of The Erasable Podcast fame).  Part of the new Nerd Uprising Network, Dot Grid "explores the intersection between the digital and analog ecosystems."  This week's episode inspired me to start working on learning Markdown again.  

Happy Sunday! 

Deep, rich, purply blue Aurora Ink! 

If I have a pen loaded up with "basic" blue ink for work, there's a good chance it's Aurora Blue. I prefer the Aurora ink to Waterman's Serenity (formerly "Florida") Blue; the Aurora has a depth and richness of color that the Waterman does not, without sacrificing any of the properties that make Waterman ink the “go-to” ink for vintage pen users and restorers.
By the way, if you’re a fountain pen user and have not heard others sing the virtues of Waterman “Florida Blue” (as it was formerly known), it’s generally considered one of, if not the, safest inks out there, in that it does not stain pens or clothes, behaves well on the vast majority of papers, and won’t melt your fountain pen. While I’m no chemist, and make no representation as to whether or not Aurora Blue has a similar chemical composition, in my experience Aurora ink (black or blue) is low-maintenance and safe. I’ve never had a problem with it in any pen. 

Takeaways If You Are Considering This Ink

• If you need a solid, well performing blue ink for professional use, you can’t go wrong here.
• Aurora Blue does not feather, bleed, smear, or ghost on most papers. It dries quickly, even on the slick Clairefontain paper and Exacompta index card stock that I use to write my reviews.
• The one “con” I can come up with is price, and I know I’m being nitpicky here. Aurora ink is generally priced at $15–18 for a 45ml bottle. That’s more expensive than Waterman ink (approximately $11 for a 50ml bottle). I do like the Aurora bottle very much, in that it is tall and makes it easy to fill a pen with a large nib.
• NOTE: Aurora Blue is a very deep violet blue, with noticeable purple undertones, especially when the ink is wet. If you don't like purple inks, you may not like Aurora Blue. (In the interest of full disclosure, I would write with purple ink on a regular basis if I could get away with it, but many of the documents that I have to sign daily must be signed in blue ink, so this is my best option.)

While this bottle of Aurora Blue is from my personal collection and was purchased with my own funds long ago, our sponsor PenChalet has a good price ($15) on this ink.  

From left to right:  Koh-I-Noor Triograph (this super-jumbo triangular pencil is the only one I've found that won't fit); Caran d'Ache Blackwood; Musgrave Cub; and Ticonderoga Laddie.  

Not much needs to be said about this beauty.  I'm an unabashed fan of jumbo and mini-jumbo pencils, especially round ones, because I find that they can be much more comfortable to hold for long stretches of time than the standard No. 2.  The drawback is that it's extremely difficult to find a sharpener that fits a larger pencil, and the ones that do put a short, stubby point on the pencil that lasts for about 10 minutes.  I'm here to tell you that Classroom-Friendly Supplies has solved that problem.

Classroom Friendly Supplies is a company operated by teachers, formed with the purpose of selling high quality, relatively quiet pencil sharpeners at a reasonable price.  Sick of those wall-mounted and/or electric sharpeners that don't sharpen properly and eat your pencils?  I hated those things when I was in school.  (And, apparently, teachers hate them because they are extremely loud.)  Classroom Friendly Supplies offers two models:  a sharpener for standard-girth pencils (reviewed here at Pencil Revolution), and the version that I'm reviewing here, which is the jumbo sharpener (technically called the "Large Hole Sharpener").  The standard version is made out of metal, the jumbo out of plastic, and both operate via the same slide-out-the-faceplate, insert-pencil-into-grip, and crank method that does a great job of not only forming very sharp points but preserves your pencils by doing only as much sharpening as is necessary.  

While you can use the Classroom Friendly Jumbo Sharpener to sharpen regular pencils, it does not produce the satisfyingly long point that the regular Classroom Friendly Sharpener does.  Here you can see the Jumbo Sharpener loaded with a pencil, ready to go.  Just crank! 

Takeaways

Classroom Friendly sharpeners are great products.  I have two of them, and love them.  The standard model that I have was purchased with my own funds, and I've been using it for a couple years.  In the interest of full disclosure, this jumbo model was provided to me free of charge for review purposes by Classroom Friendly Supplies.  All of their sharpeners can be purchased directly through their website for the very reasonable price of $24.99 each, and I believe there are also educator and volume discounts available.  If you wear out your sharpener (which I imagine would take quite a while), you can also purchase replacement parts. 

The snow is finally melting, thought it's now been replaced by minor flooding from nearly three inches of rain.  Doesn't do much for cabin fever!  Here's a few of the things I've been reading while I've been cooped up: 

1. Ed Jelley Reviews Kaweco's new 14K gold nibs.  I may try to test these out myself at some point.  It would be interesting to write with a Kaweco that is closer to the original vintage pen, but I'm hesitant to spend an additional $100 to upgrade the nib when the steel typically works just fine for me.  
2. Ed also has a new photographic series titled "Colors in Stationery."  Very cool stuff.  Check out the "orange" piece. 
3. I missed the LA Pen Show (again).  Dan at FPGeeks shows off his haul here.  I've been wanting to go to this show for years, but something always comes up at work.   He also has his Thursday/Friday write up posted on the blog.  Next year, I am there.  
4. I missed this last week, but Mary at From the Pen Cup has a great piece on being more deliberate about acquiring pieces for your collection.  I'm proud of myself for the fact that I haven't spent my daughter's college fund while I've been trapped in the house surfing pens on the internet for the past week.  Thank you Mary! 
5. Inklode reviews one of the Sailor Kobe Nagasawa Inks (Old Foreigner Ward Sepia No. 3).    I've been wanting to order some of these inks for a while, and when I finally get to travel to Japan, I'm going to go crazy. 
6. The Pen Addict is running a great promotion with Cult Pens (20% off your order).  Cult Pens carries a wide selection of fountain pens (including an exclusive line of Diamine Ink) and also stocks a lot of European woodcase pencils that are difficult to find in the United States.  You can order them by the dozen.  

Happy Sunday everyone! 

I may not like this ink much, but I love the older Montblanc "rounded shoe" ink bottles, as opposed to the more recent square versions. 

One criticism I often see lobbed at product bloggers--and stationery bloggers in particular--is that we review the products we like and largely ignore products we don't (presumably to curry favor with manufacturers and retailers who send out complimentary products for review).  I don't see it that way--I think most people just don't like the negativity associated with slamming someone's  product, especially where there has been a good-faith attempt to introduce something new into the market.  But, reviewing is a public service of sorts, and I do what I must.  I've come across an ink that I don't like at all.  

I picked up this bottle of vintage (late 1990s, early 2000s) Montblanc Ruby Red ink at Joe Rodgers office supply in Cleveland, Tennessee, when I was in the area over the summer.  Remarkably, this bottle also bore the original price tag ($8.50).  This ink's name, however, simply does not match the actual color.  It turns out that Ruby Red is more of a pinkish coral/peach color, that is so bright at times it almost looks neon.  This color just doesn't work for me, and there's not much more to say about it. 

I had to adjust the photo some to duplicate the pinkish hue of this ink, which doesn't photograph very accurately.  I wouldn't use this color, so there's no reason to keep it.  I do wonder, though, how it compares against Montblanc's new "pink" ink.  

If you'd like this bottle of ink, leave a comment here on the blog, and in exactly one week I will number the comments in the order they are received and use a random number generator to pick the lucky reader.  Unfortunately, since this is ink, and it's a relatively heavy bottle, I'm going to have to economize and make this giveaway open to U.S. residents only.  There is nothing wrong with the ink itself.  It behaves like a Montblanc ink should, even though it's red.  I had no trouble washing this out of the pen (immediately) after reviewing it.  Best of luck, everybody!          

I will send you this bottle in its original box (with $8.50 price tag).  :)  

Why do I go to flea markets whenever I can?  Because you never know what you will find.  Today, an early 1920s Sheaffer flat-top and two bullet pencils.  The one on the left received a new eraser from me. 

One common question I get from readers is “how do I go about purchasing a vintage fountain pen, if I'm just getting into collecting?”  It’s a difficult question:  there’s no per se right or wrong way to do it, and the reality is that it’s a trial-and-error process that I’m still learning myself.  But here are a few thoughts to make your vintage pen buying experience as enjoyable as possible. 

Do your research.  From the time they hit the mainstream in the early 1900s until the 1970s, fountain pens were a commodity item.  There are dozens of brands of vintage pens out there floating around.  The pen forums (FPN, FPGeeks, FPBoard) are invaluable sources of information on vintage pen brands and all aspects of repair, use, collectibility, etc.  Books, such as Andreas Lambrou's "Fountain Pens of the World", are also helpful, especially when they have good pictures.  Once you know what interests you, check out the trading forums and their online classifieds sections to get a sense of the appropriate price range for the pen you have in mind.  Prices will vary, but doing a survey of pens for sale online will give you a rough idea so that you don’t overpay too much.  See my “Reference Links” page on this blog for some additional sources of free information.     

Don’t spend a lot of money starting out.  I understand this concept is completely subjective, and varies from person to person, but the point is to not spend more than you can afford to lose until you figure out what you are doing.  For a lot of people, vintage Esterbrooks are a good place to start.  Esties can run anywhere from $15 or less on eBay (unrestored) to $50-60 from a reputable pen restorer.  The good thing about Esties is that they are fairly easy to restore to writing condition, so your odds of getting a bum pen are fairly low.  Given how durable Esties are, you also shouldn’t have any qualms about using them as a daily writer.      

Three Esterbrooks, from top:  Blue "J", Red "J", and Dollar Pen.  I bought all of these pens as parts of lots on eBay, and restored them myself.  Lever filler pens, which fill using a pressure bar and an ink sac, are inexpensive repairs and can be done at home once you make a small investment in supplies.  If you are interested in starting a larger collection, it's worth learning this skill. 

If you absolutely must have that Parker Duofold, Vacumatic, or 51 as your first foray into vintage pens, purchase from a reputable vintage pen retailer or go to a pen show where you can inspect the pen in person.  Many pens sold on eBay are unrestored and/or damaged in some way, and are therefore not in working order.  I would advise you not to purchase an expensive vintage pen off of eBay unless you are relatively certain the pen is not a fake and you (1) are willing to pay extra money to have the pen professionally restored ($20-$75 on average, depending on what needs to be done); or (2) know for sure that the seller is a reputable vintage pen dealer and/or restorer.  While the pens mentioned above are generally very durable and can be used as daily writers (especially the Parker Vac and the Parker 51), they require a certain level of experience/competence to restore correctly, and a botched restoration job could mean you end up with a massive ink leak in the middle of that important work meeting.  This has happened to me.  Also, vintage pens typically hold a LOT of ink—much more than the modern cartridge/converter filler—so spills can be “spectacular”.   

The Parker 51 (at bottom) and the Parker Vacumatic (top) are among the most collected vintage pens.  Both make excellent daily writers, if restored correctly, but buyer beware if you go to eBay.  

Buy “user grade” pens, at least to start.  To me, “user grade” means a pen that is in respectable condition, but isn’t an immaculate, mint-condition “collector’s piece” where you will destroy the value of the pen by inking it up and using it.  To this day, I don’t buy pens that I wouldn’t feel comfortable using.  Even though I have some pens that I wouldn't carry around in my pocket, everything in my collection can be used to work at my desk.  Writing with a vintage pen is part of the fun; it’s difficult to get a sense of which pens “speak to you” without being able to write with them.  Buying "user grade" also keeps the price down.       

Accept that you will get burned at least once, but probably a few times.  I don’t view this as being cynical so much as realistic.  As with the market for any antique or collectible, there are unscrupulous people out there looking to rip off newbies and capitalize on rising prices as good vintage pens become more scarce.  There are also a lot of honest people out there who simply don’t know what the hell they are doing.  You can purchase a pen that appears competently restored, only to discover later (typically, the hard way) that you were wrong.  I’ve also come across people at flea markets trying to sell off-brand pens like “Majestic” or “Wearever” for $100 or more, when the value of such pens rarely, if ever, exceeds $20 restored.  Despite your best efforts, if you trade or buy enough, you eventually will spend money on a pen that wasn’t worth it.  It happens to us all.  Accept it and move on.        

Temper your expectations.  Vintage pens are antiques, often 75-100 years old.  They can seem as usable as they were the day they were made (and often, they are), but people still tend to expect too much.  Even the best-restored vintage pen may have the occasional hiccup.  For example, the most common issues I run into involve temperature and air pressure fluctuation.  If the temperature changes rapidly (such as when going from a cold car to a warm office), the pen may burp ink.  Likewise, don’t carry filled vintage pens on an airplane unless you want a mess when you uncap the pen.  Learn to accept that this is part of the fun, and doesn’t necessarily mean your pen is defective.  As much as we all love fountain pens, they were never perfect technology.  There was a reason the pen companies started developing ballpoints.    

Consider collecting what I refer to as “new vintage.”  One personal area of interest is Waterman pens from the 1980s and 1990s.  These pens are sturdy cartridge/converter fillers, and therefore have the same “advantages” as modern pens.  Because they are still relatively common, you often can find new old stock or mint condition pens for very reasonable prices.  And, because these pens often don’t need restoration beyond a good polishing and cleaning, there’s less risk incurred in the purchase.  Waterman, Sheaffer, Parker, and others all produced very high quality writing instruments during this time frame.  

I hope this has been helpful.  Some of these may seem like “common sense” points, but they’re still worth keeping in mind if you're considering entering the vintage pen world.  Take it from someone who's been there:  in the heat of a pen show, or when presented with a spur-of-the-moment, can’t-pass-it-up “great deal,” common sense can go out the window.  But at the end of the day, I love using my vintage pens, keep them inked up regularly, and am always looking to add to the collection.  Over the next few weeks, I’ll be posting some reviews on specific vintage models, and will discuss different topics on collecting, use, and restoration. 

Another shot at today's find in the Nashville Flea Market:  An early-1920s Shearer Flat-top.  This pen is definitely user-grade, but I'm still looking forward to restoring it to writing condition and using it at home. 

1. Ed Jelley photographs the next installment in his "Stationery in Colors" series.  Up now is the Blue Edition.  These are gorgeous.   
2. Pete Denison discusses website memberships.  Some great things to consider here.   
3. Ray over at Fountain Pen Quest discusses his Sheaffer Balance Aspen SE (a prime example of what I consider "new vintage" pens that I discuss in my most recent article on entering the world of vintage collecting).  I'm still mad that I passed up the chance to acquire one of these. 
4. The Pen Addict asks 3 questions of the Pencil Revolutionary, Johnny Gamber.
5. Major giveaway alert!  Pen Chalet is giving away three different pens this month!
6. I'm giving away a bottle of vintage Montblanc Ruby Red Ink.  The giveaway closes tomorrow at midnight, CST.  If you're interested in this "hot pink" ink (and I understand your numbers may be few), consider entering.  There may not be much competition for this one. 

As always, thanks for reading, and Happy Sunday! 

Fresh from random.org, the giveaway winner is everyone's favorite (new) podcaster.... Will Fanguy!  Will, you have exactly 3 days to claim your prize before I pick a new winner.  Don't think I won't do it.  Please contact me through Twitter or the website and I will figure out how to get your ink to you. 

My new Lamy Copper Orange AL-Star with Lamy Copper Orange Ink cartridge.  Paper is Exacompta Index Card Stock. 

I didn't think I would like this pen as much as I do.  I'm a fan of Lamy pens, with the 2000 being my favorite.  I like the Safari, and I've owned an AL-Star in the past but didn't take to it, even though it was red (typically my favorite color in pens).  But there's something about this year's limited edition that really struck a chord with me, and I had to have it.  I'm sure it's directly related to the depressing weather we've been having here in the greater Nashville, Tennessee area--it's been either frigid with six inches of ice on the roads, or raining in buckets.  So why not buy an orange pen?  It beats the S.A.D. lamp.    

There's nothing remarkable about the AL-Star as a writer that I haven't already addressed in my review of the Safari.  It's a good pen--slightly larger than the Safari--and you would be hard pressed to find a better option at less than $40, provided you can deal with the shape of the grip section.  Some people think the AL-Star lacks character, but I like metal pens, and the aluminum AL-Star feels great in the hand.  I have also settled on medium as my preferred Lamy Safari/AL-Star nib width.  The extra fine and fine nibs tend to have flow issues, in my experience, and the broader nibs are too wide for my handwriting.  Medium hits the sweet spot.      

My package from Frank at Fontoplumo.  

I preordered this pen, along with two packages of Lamy's limited edition orange ink cartridges, from Frank at Fontoplumo in the Netherlands.  If you've never ordered from Fontoplumo, add it to your list of pen purchasing options.  Prices are reasonable, and shipping is relatively quick, considering that (unless you are located in Europe) your order will have to be processed through customs.  I purchased this pen and ink with my own funds--it was not provided for review.   

As to the ink, I hope that Lamy adds orange to its array of regular colors, as they did with last year's limited edition "coral" ink.  The orange is a solid option for those of you out there who like an orange ink, but feel that many other orange options on the market are either too "neon-highlighter-esque" or too washed out looking.  Lamy's offering is a middle-of-the-road, darker orange, which exhibits some shading and is fairly resistant to feathering and bleed-through.  I've been using it for a week and would buy a bottle without hesitation, if Lamy decides to go that route.  

My Midnight Blue Aerometric Parker 51, loaded with Noodler's Air Corps Blue Black. 

When it comes to vintage pens, few pens evoke the same degree of emotion as the Parker 51. The Parker 51 is iconic:  it dominated the fountain pen market for many years in the middle of the 20th century.  But as with many pens that are not “traditional” looking, you either hate this pen or you love this pen. There’s not really a middle ground. Personally, I love the Parker 51. It was the first vintage pen that I owned, and is probably my second favorite vintage pen behind the Parker Vacumatic. 

The Parker 51 in hand to give you an indication of the size. 

Vintage and (very) modern, side by side.  this picture gives you another sense of the size compared to the Lamy AL-Star. 

The 51 was first conceived in the late 1930s and appeared on the market in 1941, following the Vacumatic in Parker's product life cycle. For the first several years of the pen’s existence, it actually used the Vacumatic’s filling system, which involved using a pump to fill the body of the pen with ink. Vacumatic 51s are still readily available, have a large ink capacity, and generally work well, although they tend to require a bit more restoration work and can be frustrating to clean when changing inks. Vacumatic fillers are not as durable as the later aerometric models, which were introduced in the late 1940’s, and require periodic servicing to replace the sac. Aerometric fillers can also fail, but the sacs Parker used in those hold up well over time.

The 51 introduced never-before-seen (to my knowledge) design elements to fountain pens: a hooded, 14K tubular nib, which was intended to accommodate new fast-drying inks that Parker was developing. Unfortunately, unlike the 51 itself, “Parker 51” and “Superchrome” inks did not withstand the test of time. (These inks are “super”-corrosive, so if you come across them in antiques malls, flea markets, etc., DO NOT USE THEM.)

I have a few 51s in my personal collection. My “user” pen, the one that I consider “my 51,” is the first vintage pen I purchased at the 2011 Ohio Pen Show. It’s a Midnight Blue Aerometric filler, and it has a smooth medium nib. True medium nibs on Parker 51s are somewhat hard to find. Most of these pens shipped with fine and extra fine nibs; broad and stub nibs command a premium in today’s vintage pen market. 

This 51 is definitely a “user grade” pen. In vintage pen parlance, that means the pen is not a mint-condition collector’s piece. There are micro-scratches on the barrel from where the pen has been capped and posted numerous times during its life, and there is some pitting on the chrome cap. In short, this pen has been used in the past, and I will continue to use it. The looks of this pen didn’t matter to me so much: I bought it for the nib. 

As I mentioned in my last post regarding getting into the vintage pen game, I prefer to buy user-grade pens. This way, I can carry the pen to and from work, use the pen, and not have to worry about whether the particular ink I want to use is “safe” for vintage pens. 

So you have your eye on a Parker 51? A few points to consider:

• If you are buying an older Parker 51 that uses the vacumatic filling system, make sure that it works, or that the price you pay accounts for the cost of having the filling system restored by a competent restorer. It's unlikely the filling system will work without servicing.  If you’re moderately handy, you can restore the pen yourself, but properly disassembling the pen and fixing the filler unit requires some supplies and typically, some special tools. If you’re not careful, you can break the pen beyond repair. Last time I checked, the going rate for repair of a vacumatic filler was $25–50, depending on the extent of the necessary restoration and assuming that the filler unit has to be repaired and not replaced. 
• The Parker 51 is a rounded pen that is very smooth and can be slippery. Some people find the pen difficult to grip, which in turn causes the pen to skip or scratch because the nib does not stay properly oriented on the paper. This issue is not something that I have personally noticed, but I see the complaint from time to time. 
• Watch the prices on these pens. I have seen lots of overpriced Parker 51s, both at pen shows and on eBay. At the show where I bought my pen, the going rate for a user-grade aerometric Parker 51, in respectable condition with a decent nib, was around $100. Prices of course, may vary, and if you are willing to take a little risk on eBay, you can get them for much less (especially if you buy wholesale lots of unrestored pens). 

Overall, the Parker 51 is a great “first vintage pen,” if you are willing to spend a little money to get one in decent condition. The pen is iconic, if you like it’s “futuristic design,” and it’s a durable workhorse. I’ve found 51s in eBay lots that need little restoration other than a flush with water and pen cleaner.

Next in this series will be my favorite vintage pen, and the centerpiece of my personal collection, the Parker Vacumatic.

Note:  I purchased my Parker 51 from Tom Mullane, who passed away last year.  Most of the background information in this article comes from discussions I have had with dealers and collectors  at pen shows, as well as Andreas Lambrou's authoritative Fountain Pens of the World.   If you are considering collecting vintage pens, invest in this book.  It's expensive, but will save you money in the long run.  I don't regret the purchase, because if it saves you money on one or two bad pens it's paid for itself.  

I can't really call these links "Sunday Reading" this week, because I'm a day late.  Losing that hour of sleep to daylight savings really threw a wrench in my day yesterday.  BUT, the wait will be worth it, because this week's links contain a lot of giveaway information.  Here's to procrastination at work! 

• Office Supply Geek is giving away one of Baron Fig's new "Maker" Special Edition Confidant journal as well as a three-pack of Apprentice pocket notebooks, both in charcoal gray.  Giveaway runs until March 11, 2015, with the winner posted the following day.
• WriteAnalog is giving away a Baron Fig Confidant and a Uni-Ball Signo RT.  The giveaway runs through the end of March. 
• Massdrop is giving away a Pelikan M400 Fountain pen with some other assorted swag.  Don't miss this one. (Via Gourmetpens).  
• FPQuest Reviews the Parker Duofold Senior (as in, the one from the 1920s).  This is a vintage pen I have yet to add to my collection.  Still looking for a reasonably priced specimen.  Ray is also gearing up for Fountain Pen Show Season (as am I). 

And for the eraserheads out there, some news from pencildom: 

• Pencil Revolution has Part III of the massive Father-Son Pencil Review.  If you missed Part I and Part II, check them out.  I won't spoil who the overall winner is because you should read this series for yourself.
• The Well Appointed Desk reviews the Staedtler Rally, a pencil I've never tried.
•  The CW Pencils retail store opens in New York City on Wednesday, March 11, so if you are in the New York area, you should drop in and show your support for independently owned local stationery stores.  

Also, you will notice that I've listed some restored vintage pens for sale on the blog.  I've been learning fountain pen repair/restoration over the past year or two, so you may see more pens listed periodically, along with some vintage mechanical pencils and bullet pencils.  

Happy Monday! 

I broke this out yesterday from my stash of inks that I somehow never got around to trying, and I really like it.  I'm not anti-Noodler's.  I don't necessarily buy the "these inks will dissolve your pen" arguments as long as you are smart about cleaning your pen periodically and use common sense with your fragile vintage stuff.  For example, don't use a super saturated Noodler's Ink in a vintage celluloid pen that could easily stain.  For most modern pens, I'll typically give Noodler's a go.  (As with anything I say on this blog, YMMV, so use your own judgment with regard to what inks you're comfortable with.)  

Pinstripe Homage has some of my favorite Noodler's artwork. 

Anyway, back to this ink.  Pinstripe Homage is one of the "New York Colors" that Noodler's manufactured for the former Art Brown International Pen Shop in Manhattan (may it rest in peace).  Other colors included Subway Series Sepia, Manhattan Blue, and Brooklyn Brawn.  Some of us out there appreciate the overarching baseball theme.  Personally, I love this color, and can't believe that I waited this long to use it.  I'd describe it as a darker blue black with hints of teal (dare I say a "dark Yama-Dori"?)  I also like the fact that this ink dries quickly and doesn't bleed, though it will feather a bit on cheap paper, like most Noodler's inks.  

People have also compared this ink to Iroshizuku Syo-Ro, another "teal-black" ink.  

Unfortunately, as far as I know this ink is not available anymore.  I picked up my bottle from Goldspot, who bought Art Brown's remaining stock when the shop closed.  If anyone wants to do an ink sample trade for some of this, reach out!          

The vintage pen "gold standard."  

While I'm working on the more comprehensive Parker Vacumatic review, I thought I would write a shorter piece to specifically answer some questions I've received about inks that are safe to use in vintage pens.  Experienced pen repairers and restorers typically advise vintage pen collectors to use what they deem to be "safe" inks in vintage pens, namely Waterman Ink and Sheaffer Skrip.  You also hear Aurora being plugged from time to time.  So what's the truth here?  First of all, a disclaimer:  everything I say on this website comes from my own experience, which is limited compared to many, many others out there, given that I have only been collecting for five or six years.  For example, Richard Binder has written an excellent (and comprehensive) article on fountain pen inks, which has not only informed my own views but, at least to me, remains the definitive authority out there on this issue.  

But here are some things to consider that I've found invaluable: 

• Clean your pens regularly!  No matter what ink you may use, you need to practice good pen hygiene and make sure your pens are flushed regularly.  This is especially true with vintage pens, which were designed to write with more "watery" inks and can clog easier than their modern counterparts.   
• Inks sold by the old-line pen manufacturers (i.e., Waterman, Sheaffer, Aurora) are generally safe to use in all pens.  These inks are your best bet, and the rule of thumb that I fall back on when I get nervous about staining a favorite or valuable pen.  There are some exceptions of course:  people have had problems with modern Parker Quink, particularly the black, and Richard points out that Sailor inks may be too alkaline to use with the kinds of celluloids used in vintage pens.  Purple ink can stain anything, no matter the brand.  (See below.) 
• If you must use highly saturated inks such as Noodler's, Private Reserve, or Levenger in a vintage pen, clean regularly and be prepared to see some staining.  For example, I've accepted that the clear ink sac in my user-grade Parker 51 is never going to return to its original color after I filled it with Noodler's La Couleur Royale, but I don't care.  It's not a collector's item, and I practice good pen hygiene when using Noodler's Inks in that pen (i.e., flushing the pen after every fill).  
• Avoid purple inks in vintage pens.  I've found that even Waterman purple has a tendency to stain.
• Don't use certain vintage inks such as Parker 51 Ink or Superchrome.  You can still find bottles of these inks in antique stores, and apparently people are tempted to use them.  While certain vintage inks such as Carter's Ink and Sheaffer Skrip have held up well over the years and are perfectly usable, 51 Ink and Superchrome are highly corrosive and will destroy pens.  If any vintage ink you might find--no matter the brand--has mold or a musty smell, don't use it. 
• Finally, if you feel handicapped by the colors available to you in the "safe" ink lines, consider ink mixing!  I created the red-black ink below using a mixture of four parts Sheaffer Skrip and one part Aurora Black.  I've been very satisfied with the result.  Mixing Waterman blue and Waterman purple 50/50 will also create a nice violet-blue color, which stains less than pure purple, in my experience.          

My first "creation":  "The Gentleman Stationer Red-Black".  

Without further ado...great stuff this week: 

1. WriteAnalog interviews Johnny Gamber, "The Original Pencil Blogger."  Excellent interview, and fascinating reading. 
2. The Well-Appointed Desk reviews the new Diamine 1864 Blue-Black Ink.  I may have to pick this one up when I get a chance--blue-blacks are growing on me and I find myself using them more and more.  For those of you just starting out in this hobby, Ana also gives us her Top 5 Pens under $30.     
3. The Pen Addict reviews the elusive (and ridiculously expensive) Parker Penman Sapphire, a discontinued Ink.  I agree, it's a nice color, but at $100 per bottle...?
4. The Clicky Post reviews the new Double Pen Sleeve from One Star Leather.  These products have been on my radar to try for a while, I've just never gotten around to trying one.  That will definitely change soon. 
5. EDIT:  Can't believe I forgot this one.  The boys from DotGrid interview Aaron Draplin.  Discussing the new Two Rivers Field Notes and more! 

I hope everyone's week is off to a great start.  Thanks for reading! 

The Pentel EnerGel Alloy, in chrome.  Perhaps the best of the "Big Box" pen body upgrades? 

Say you're on your way to a meeting with an important client, and realize that you've forgotten the stately Lamy 2000 that you use as your "meeting pen"--not too flashy, yet impressive all the same.  What do you do?  Run into the Office Depot / Staples parking lot and pick up one of these.   Like many other pen companies, Pentel offers an upgraded barrel for their EnerGel line of disposable gel pens.  The cost is around $10, and for that you get a shiny, and fairly sturdy, "chrome" pen body with a textured metal grip.  It also comes in black, turquoise, pink, and purple.

I like this pen better than the Pilot G2 Limited that I previously reviewed.  The G2 Limited rattles a lot and after extensive use feels like it is about to fall apart, which makes sense because the pen is primarily plastic and the components loosen up over time.  The EnerGel Alloy is a machined metal pen.  It's very light, and if I had one critique it's that the body is slightly long in the hand.  Because there's not much weight to it, however, it doesn't throw the balance off and I don't mind.  This pen and the Render K (with a red Hi-Tec-C refill) will travel with me to New Orleans, where I'll be attending a conference for a few days (and hoping to visit this place).    

So how does it write?  It writes like an EnerGel, and that's a good thing.  I'm an unabashed fan of EnerGels, particularly the .5mm needle-points, and have been somewhat disappointed with the lack of Kickstarter barrel option for this refill (at least without significant hacking).  Until someone makes one (or e-mails me, tells me I'm an idiot, and points me to an obvious Kickstarter option that I've missed), I'm happy with the Alloy.  I was surprised to find that you can get the Chrome model for just over $5 on Amazon, so I'm dropping some affiliate links in here.  Note that the Alloy is sold with the conical-tip refill, not the needlepoint.  The conical tip is still good, but you may have to shell out an extra few bucks for a set of refills if you want to go with the needle-point.   

Image courtesy of Flickr Creative Commons. 

After a few days of not-so-refeshing "work" travel in the Crescent City, I'm back, recharged and ready to go (or not), with a fresh set of Sunday Links.  Here are my best-of-the-best from the past week: 

1. I'm insanely jealous of all of the new Pelikan M805 Stresemanns that are being acquired.  Take a look at FPQuest, as well as some killer Instagram photos from EdJelley.com.  Unfortunately, this one's not going to be on my horizon anytime soon. 
2. CW Pencil Enterprise is now a physical retail store.  Finally, a reason to look forward to all those work trips to NYC after the closing of Art Brown. 
3. Renowned Sailor Nibmeister Nagahara Nobuyoshi passed away this week. (via Chronicas Estilographicas.)  His son, Yukio, is carrying on the family tradition, and I have a nib ground by him that I purchased at last year's D.C. Pen Show. 
4. Mary Collis at From the Pen Cup is prominently featured in this week's "3 Questions" at the Pen Addict.  She also posted a great review of the Ti2 Techliner, which I will be picking up as soon as I can. 
5. I've recently started reading Fountain Pen Economics, written by the economist and pen enthusiast Dr. Jonathon Deans, who offers a unique perspective on the pen industry and the roles played by various brands/retailers.  This week, the blog featured an analysis of the discount website Massdrop (I share his skepticism regarding the site's long-term viability), as well as a piece recommending that bloggers write more critical reviews. As to the latter, I certainly believe bloggers have an obligation to write reviews reflecting their honest opinion of a product, as opposed to becoming shills for retailers/manufacturers who provide free stuff.  At the same time, I'm sympathetic to smaller-scale writers, like myself, who have to fund most of their product reviews out of their own pocket, and can't afford to purchase a product (even at a discount) that they suspect they won't like.  I believe this factor is one cause for the surplus of "positive" reviews.  For the record, however, if I truly don't like something, I will tell you.  And if anyone wants to send me some crappy pens or pencils to review, I'm happy to do it.  
6. Mark Tucker continues his series of great reviews (and excellent photographs) with a review of the Pelikan M205 fountain pen.  As usual, he knocks it out of the park.  

Happy Sunday, everyone! 

And we come to the reason that I got into vintage pens to begin with:  the Parker Vacumatic.  I had no interest in vintage whatsoever until I came across these pens.  For some reason, the  “Vac” mesmerized me, and before I knew it I ended up with four of them.

My four vacumatics:  Amber, Green, Blue, and Silver/Platinum.  All are in respectable condition and see regular use.    

The Vacumatic is a very popular vintage pen, and a favorite among collectors.  These pens were manufactured by Parker throughout the 1930s and into the mid-1940s, with limited production continuing into the 1950s outside the United States.  The most widely recognized Vacumatics are the pens with the Art Deco, striped celluloid pattern that resemble skyscrapers from the 1930s.  These are the pens that I fell in love with, and I eventually acquired one of each color, with the exception of the more difficult to find Burgundy version.  (Next pen show purchase, for sure.)  

Many vintage pen collectors devote their entire hobby to collecting Vacumatics.  One of the best known Vacumatic collectors and dealers is Dr. David Isaacson who runs the site Vacumania.com, which is a great place to purchase a quality Vacumatic that you know has been restored properly.  (Be advised that you will likely pay a premium price, though perhaps not as much as you might fear.)  My personal vintage pen collection isn’t that large, but a sizable portion of it is devoted to Vacumatics, and I plan to give Vacs some more attention in the future. 

But where does the Vacumatic fall as a “user pen”?  I didn’t get into fountain pens, vintage or otherwise, to simply purchase them, place them in a case, and look at them.  (There’s  nothing wrong with this approach—many people take much joy in collecting for the sake of collecting, though I’m not one of them.)  

My emerald green Vac came with a very smooth medium nib.  This is one of my favorite pens in my collection. 

Here’s why I collect Vacs:  They are excellent user pens, among the best vintage pens I have used on a day-to-day basis.  They are the perfect size for me, hold a ton of ink via an interesting filling system, and the nibs typically work well for my style of writing, which is a hybrid of large/small caps printing and cursive, depending on how rushed I am.  

I think some people avoid the Vacumatic because it can look fragile.  The pens are made of celluloid, and the ones in good condition are still translucent, allowing the writer to view the ink level of the pen in the barrel.  I for one assumed that this meant the celluloid was brittle, and was terrified that I would drop or crack the pen if I carried it around.  I’ve never had this problem, and honestly, while I’m sure Vacs have broken, they’ve earned a reputation as a fairly durable writing instrument.  Some of these pens are nearly 80 years old, and still going strong on a daily basis!

Before you dive into the world of Vacs (which can suck you in and drain your bank account very quickly), here are some points to keep in mind: 

• As with any vintage pen, know what you are buying.  The Parker Vacumatic was on the market for a very long time.  The pen evolved over the years, so there are various models out there which all look different (some slightly different, others significantly so).  A thorough discussion of the different Vacumatic models is beyond the scope of this short article—entire books have been written on the subject—but a good place to start for a first purchase is with the third generation Vacumatic Major (early-to-mid 1940s).  My pens, shown in the pictures here, are third gen Vacs.  They are generally regarded as quite sturdy, and the prices are fairly reasonable, anywhere from $100-200 restored, depending on factors such as the condition of the nib, barrel clarity, etc. 
• Pay attention to restoration.  It's worth paying more for a well-restored Vac.  The filling systems aren't fragile, per se, but they have a lot of moving parts.  I've had Vacumatics leak (and even once had the "pump" filler snap off) due to improper restoration jobs.  I've done one or two Vac restorations myself, and while not difficult, they require more skill than simply re-sacking a pen.  
• A Vac is the one pen that I would recommend purchasing at a pen show, so that you can have the opportunity to see the pen in person and try out the nib.  And the nibs can be amazing!  My silver pen turned out to have a bit of flex to it. (Pictures below)  Medium and broad nibs are not as uncommon as they are on Parker 51s and other vintage pens. 
• One final tip on filling and cleaning Vacumatics:  when filling, remember that you will need to place the nib and section in the ink bottle and depress the plunger several times in order for the pen to fill completely.  It works like a pump:  keep pressing until bubbles stop coming out of the nib.  Many people think there is something wrong with the pen when in reality they have only pressed once or twice.  Cleaning/flushing the pen can be a bear.  The easiest way to do so, in my opinion, is to depress the plunger multiple times very slowly, and allow the ink to drop out of the pen.  While Vacs are great pens, they were not intended to swap inks frequently!   

Lately it's been hard for me to get more than one or two posts out per week--work (as in, the J.O.B.) has been a bear.  I'm looking forward to the Atlanta Pen Show (three weeks out!) and a chance to unwind.  There should be some interesting reviews coming soon--I have "a few" bottles of ink coming to me, including some Montblanc limited editions and Bung Box inks, so stay tuned.  In the meantime, enjoy some great writing: 

1. Ian at Pens! Paper! Pencils! has a very thoughtful post on enjoying this hobby without bankrupting oneself.  This piece spoke to me this week, especially since over the past year or so, I've been working on clearing out the "clutter" from my collection to ensure that what I keep gets used regularly.  I'm thinking of adopting a random selection method for pens and inks so that I don't get stuck in a rut.  I believe Ray over at FPQuest does something similar.   
2. Pete Denison contributes to the ongoing discussion about the role of pen/pencil/paper "reviewers," and what makes someone a "reviewer" in the first place.  
3. Monday is National Pencil Day!  Apparently the crew at the Erasable Podcast has big things in store for us.  (Via Pencil Revolution)
4. The Pelikan Stresemann pictures continue . . . . (via FPQuest).  My wallet is aching, but something about blood from a stone. . . . 
5. Massdrop is giving away two Pilot Vanishing Points and two bottles of Iroshizuku Ink.  Sign up for an account or comment on this post (via EdJelley.com) to enter! 

Enjoy your weekend!